Biking in Romania
eighth report of Dave, 08.28.2007-08.30.2007
It seems that Dave's biking in Romania adventure is close to the finish line. He's ridden himself hard through the Carpathian Mountains and also faced a very unpleasant experience this time. Just keep reading.
Upon leaving Turda, I decided to head for Bistrita. Spent (two nights ago) in my tent, got up yesterday and began spinning to Bistrita.
Around midday, I came upon a caravan of gypsies, but didn't realize they were gypsies. I had gotten so used to seeing horse drawn carts that I just thought they were a variation of those. These wagons were drawn by 3 horses (instead of one or 2) and they were covered. Anyway I stopped to take some photos. Instantly, they were on me like, well, like... "a pack of thieves!".
Well, people, please don't think Dave has something against the gypsy people. Neither do I. We are both open mind people with no preconceptions about things of life or people. But I thing you need to know more about this subject.
Dave met a group of nomad gypsies. This kind of people lives a completely different life from the rest of us. And because we (most people) don't agree with their lifestyle or, rather, we can't understand it, we sometimes point to them as being different (in a negative way). Maybe too often.
And I speak generally. The same things happen with nomadic people in western countries. We point them out as strange and, after a time, they do strange things. That's why, in my opinion, they generally react in this way when faced with a stranger who is not of their group…
I realized right away what a fool I was but handled the situation as best I could. There were about a dozen of them gathered around me basically demanding money for the photo I took. I was able to placate them by giving them some change, a little at a time while I put my camera away. Then jumped on the bike and madly spun away.
Dave's preservation instinct helped him to find the best way to manage this situation. The nomads are not dangerous people. But they love to see the fear in your eyes. They don't come to you. They overcome you and make you feel you're nothing in their eyes. Then they laugh satisfied.
They don't intend to harm you. For them, it's a game, a joke. Although for the target of the game it is a veeeery bad joke. And it also serves the secondary purpose of diverting your attention from your things.
Then I felt something pulling on the trailer. Looked back and saw a gypsy woman stealing my (cheap) plastic sandals that I had Velcro-ed onto the outer strap and a small bottle of water stuck in an outer pocket.
They (not all of them) simply like to filch things. Not those things you consider important. Do you think if they wanted Dave's camera they couldn't get it? They didn't want it because it's useless for them.
But the plastic sandals could be very useful on somebody's barefoot feet. And some coins could mean their next meal. So, just work along with them and you'll be OK. Except for the fact you'll keep the bad feeling for a while. Uninvited taking is not pleasant no matter that the items aren't essentials.
I guess a bicycle journey here is not complete without at least one encounter with those people.
Well, yes and no, Dave. If I add all my travel's days in this country, strung together they have to be around 5 years, maybe more. And I have experienced this kind of thing only once. But I learned my lesson. And I'll be happy if other travelers will learn from those of us who share the experience. Not from their own experience.
The best approach is if you can avoid them. How? First by recognizing them. Their cart is their home. So, it's always covered. Villagers also use the same kind of cart to carry their field products but they never cover them - the field products are visible. You won't see field products displayed like this on a gypsy's cart. Only old things and a lot of people. Gypsies have at least 2 horses on the cart (often more) because its load is so heavy.
You can also recognize them by their clothes. Women wear long lively coloured florid petticoats (yellow, red and green are their favourites colours) and a kerchief (in the same style) on their head. Men always wear black pants and a white or coloured (the same lively style as the women's petticoats) shirt. Some of them wear a black waistcoat over the shirt and a black large brim hat.
When you recognized them, just pass along. No "Hello!". No photos. Gypsies can be very good people. But you don't know how they'll react before you meet them. So, you never saw them. They never saw you. Gently raise your speed and go your way.
Well, anyway, a couple of hours after that, I just simply ran out of energy. I know myself (as a traveler) well enough to know it was "quitting time". So I changed direction to Targu Mures (where I am now) and got here around 5 PM yesterday. Got a hotel room, Hotel Transylvania, for 2 nights.
I am just completely exhausted. I have had a stellar time here, loved every minute of it (well, almost!) but its time to head back home. Of course, I will need to figure out how to get from here to Bucharest.
After a short recovery he changed his mind. Again. He'll stay a few days in Targu Mures at my brother-in-law's, Claudiu. They decided to go to Gurghiu and catch the festival this weekend. This time it's a traditional local fest. And Dave left his bike "home".
More about Dave's biking in Romania trip after his next update.
Read the previous report.
Back to Biking in Romania page.
